Solid Colors
Solid Color Minis
Triple Swirls
Nakeds
Criss Cross
Rainbows
Hula Hoops, Poi, Flags, Staffs, Flow Toys, Props, Festival Gear
January 21, 2015
Current Hoop Offerings in the Hoop Shop
I will be keeping several basic styles available in the Etsy Store even if I decide to put them on Amazon as well. Current offerings are:
January 20, 2015
I now have naked poi mini hoops available for purchase on Amazon.com!
Naked Poi Mini Hoops
Plain Collapsible Hula Hoop
These are the two first styles of hoops that I will be selling on Amazon. I have plans for a few deluxe models just as soon as I can decide on what colors to use.
I have a feeling that an amazing rainbow hula hoop creation is about to take place and that it is going to be fabulous!
Naked Poi Mini Hoops
Plain Collapsible Hula Hoop
These are the two first styles of hoops that I will be selling on Amazon. I have plans for a few deluxe models just as soon as I can decide on what colors to use.
I have a feeling that an amazing rainbow hula hoop creation is about to take place and that it is going to be fabulous!
February 28, 2014
July 28, 2011
rainbowfrogs77: How to Make an Infinity Style Collapsible Hula Hoop
DIY Infinity Style Collapsible Hula Hoop
This is the type of hula hoop that folds up to half of its original size.
No buttons, no clickers, no bungees or frills. Just tubing, connectors and patience.
Here is a video of the type of hoops that you will be making:
Click here to see the video
Here is a video of the type of hoops that you will be making:
Click here to see the video
READ THIS ENTIRE POST BEFORE YOU DRAG YOUR BUTT DOWN TO THE STORE!!!
Step 1: TUBING
- I recommend Silverline PEP tubing found at most local Lowe's stores (It's black irrigation tubing. Schedule 80. Also known as "funny pipe".)
- Be aware that some 3/4" 100psi rolls have thin walls and the connectors do not stay in as well.
- This does not allow the tubing to firmly hold the connectors and the hoop will FALL APART when it is folded up.
- Test all 3/4" 100psi tubing prior to completely unwrapping the roll by cutting off the straightened end piece and testing a connector on the end of the roll.
- I no longer order tubing blindly for this reason. I make it a point to go to the store to make sure that the tubing is in good condition before I purchase it.
1/2" 125psi - Skinny and great for practicing hoop making skills. This tubing makes great beginners hoops, trick hoops, poi hoops. The smallest inside diameter for this tubing I have made with success is 26". Largest inside diameter without warping becoming a big problem is 42". I tend to only offer these in sizes 28"-38" ID (inside diameter).
(You can use this web calculator to get the circumference for your hoops from the diameter size: http://www.onlineconversion.com/circlesolve.htm)
3/4" 100psi - Thicker than 1/2" and what most people are looking for in a hoop. The smallest inside diameter that is easy to work with without much fear of kinking is 34" (don't let it sit in a figure 8 for very long when it's new) and the largest inside diameter without too much warping is about 46". If you plan on shipping hoops to customers I suggest stopping the sizes at 44" or even 42". Anything over that size gets bigger shipping charges via USPS Priority mail.
3/4" 160psi - Thicker and great for the workout hoops. The smallest inside diameter I work with on these is 34" but they can be stubborn. 36" is easier to manage. The largest inside diameter without much warping again is 46" and 48" also holds up fairly nicely.
(Please note that 1" ID tubing is too large and difficult to manipulate into this process. You have to do an entire heat treatment on the tubing in order to let it harden and hold shape so that it will not kink and this can take several attempts over the course of several days to get them to function properly. I have phased them out as collapsibles and only make them for REALLY heavy workouts hoops. It also hurts and/or bruises your hips.)
All tubing above is referred to by the inside diameter of the tubing as that is how you will have to refer to it at the hardware store in order to get the correct items. 3/4" is the INSIDE DIAMETER of the tubing, if you measure from one outside wall of the tubing to the the other outside wall of the tubing it is closer to 1". BUT, if you walk into a hardware store and ask them for 1" connectors for your 3/4" tubing they are not going to fit. You have to refer to the inside diameter of the tubing.
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Step 2: TOOLS
1.) PVC CUTTERS:
- Cough up the dough for a pair of PVC cutters.
- Just do it, it's only like $14 bucks and you're going to be so happy about it.
- It's two seconds and you're done cutting.
- Don't nickle and dime it, just buy the PVC cutters.
- I'm not even going to suggest anything else to you.
- Your time is VALUABLE AND YOU ARE WORTH IT!
- If you've never used them before be sure to ask someone who knows, or watch a tutorial on it. It took me half an hour to figure them out.
- Please also note that they are SHARP AND WILL CUT YOUR FINGER OFF OF YOUR BODY! Literally, off.
- Use caution.
2.) LIGHTERS:
Do not use really, really cheap ones because they can explode.
I prefer regular BIC lighters that are solid plastic.
Pry off the child proof part on the top with a pair of small pliers so it doesn't get hot and burn you.
(You can also use a hair dryer but it will take longer. Heat guns turn the tubing into putty and just get it entirely too hot. I bought one about a year ago, used it once and returned it the next day.)
You can also use boiling hot water but the steam can be problematic as it can burn you and the hot water can roll down the tubing and burn you as well.
Hot water also straightens out the tubing and it is harder to get the tubing back into circular shape.
3.) END NIPPERS:
Typically in the electrical section. I usually find mine at a discount store or dollar store, just depends. You probably don't need these if you have a Dremel tool or a bench grinder.
4.) Box Cutter:
Use one with a thin blade or a Dremel Tool - For trimming connectors.
5.) Safety Goggles:
For trimming connectors. But quite honestly you should wear safety goggles anytime you use tools.
6.) Goo Gone:
If you're going to be selling or gifting Naked Hoops (no tape) you'll want to clean them up before hand. If your tubing is disgustingly dirty you'll need to clean it up before you tape it up or finish it because that dirt on the tubing is totally gnarly.
7.) Flexible Tape Measure:
For measuring your diameter.
8.) Sharpie:
You always, Always, ALWAYS!!! need a sharpie.
Step 3: Connectors
Use only LASCO PVC (dark grey) connectors. They are available at Home Depot(and some Lowe's stores). Other connectors do not work as well.
- When asking for them refer to them 3/4" or 1/2" insert couplings.
- If the "Master Plumber" on site doesn't know what you're talking about tell them that they are Schedule 80.
- If they still don't know what that is tell them that they are BARBS that connect IRRIGATION TUBING a.k.a. FUNNY PIPE for making SPRINKLER SYSTEMS.
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Pick a diameter size and decide if you want to go with inside diameter or outside diameter. I find a lot of people have problems with their current hoop and have no idea why. My assumption is that people are getting hoops that are measured by their outside diameter, great if you are doing off the body work, terrible if you're trying to get it to around your waist. Especially if you're a larger Hooper and your waist measurement is a delicate part of the equation when picking out a hoop for waist hooping.
Example: A 42" diameter hoop
Outside diameter:42"
Inside diameter:Closer to 40"
This example shows that the tubing that is actually going around your waist is 40" and the outside is 42", which was the size someone recommended for you. But you're actually trying to push 40" around your waist...not 42". I find this causes frustration..it did for me. Now I measure all of my hoops by the inside diameter and do outside diameter by request only.
If you're not a math wiz or don't want to take the time, or don't have the time to calculate your pi's and whatnots go here and use this calculator.
I round to the nearest 1/4", either up or down depending on the circumstances of the circumferences.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/circlesolve.htm
Figure out your diameter size and how many inches you need to measure for your circumference and if you want to go with inside/outside diameter.
Example:
42" inside diameter
Measure 132 around the INSIDE of the tubing, hold tape measure firmly in place as you go around.
42" outside diameter
Measure 132 around the OUTSIDE of the tubing, hold tape measure firmly in place as you go around.
When you get to the end mark that spot with a sharpie and make as straight a cut as you can with your PVC cutters.
You can make a template hoop if you like, GO FOR IT! I totally have faith in you.
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Four Connector Hoop - These can be stubborn and irritating in the beginning but in the end the result is a hoop that has a place to release pressure at each bend in the tubing. Tubing is a bit like clay in that it creates "memory" as to how it has looked in the past and how it continues to want to look. It takes a lot to beat that memory out of it and having a place for the tubing to release on all four focus points tends to give it a longer lifespan and require less reshaping, hot water soaks and much less shouting and frustration. It will take awhile to open up quickly and you will have to work with it to get it to behave for about a month. It's also just a bit heavier because it has four connectors in it. You also have to work around four interruptions in your tape design.
Two Connector Hoop - This is the hoop most people buy because it POPS RIGHT OPEN AND IS "SO EASY AND PERFECT". And it still is a great hoop. There is less interruption in the taping design and it does open up easier. But, there will be a time when it begins to warp in those two long stretches of hoop where there is nowhere for the pressure to release. Great for beginners, takes a lot less time to make and a couple bucks less because it takes two less connectors than a four connector hoop.
One Connector Hoop - Contrary to popular belief you can absolutely collapse a one connector hoop. The problem is opening it back up. A one connector hoop will collapse with no issues as long as you hold the connector on the side by your hand when you close it up. When you open it up the connector has to be in a certain location in order for it to open. If a one connector doesn't open right up then you have to rearrange the tubing in order for it to do so. I'll put instructions on this up in a few. This is how I make my personal hoops. (I will create a video to show this process as soon as I can. And I will post a link to it here.)
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Yes you need to do this or your hoop will not collapse.
Take a look at one of your connectors. It should have nubs. Two big ones, a circular looking one in the middle and two places that look like little circles in the ridges of it. Those seriously need to come off. Yes you can do it.
Take your End Nippers and Nip the biggest parts off as well as you can, you don't really have to do this part if you bought the Dremel tool or sometimes I even use a bench grinder to buff these off with a grinding wheel.
- Take your box cutter and go at the remaining nubs as if you are whittling a stick.
- Push with your thumbs, keep your fingers out of the way and cut AWAY FROM YOURSELF!
- Hold firmly, don't let it slip.
- If you're knife isn't sharp enough THROW IT AWAY AND GET ONE THAT IS.
- I have permanently altered the fingerprint on the pointer finger of my left hand from not using a sharp enough knife that was too wide and not holding onto the connector enough. To top it all off, I did it twice, and now a large X is permanently in my finger print for the rest of my life. No bank robbing for me I guess.
If you've got a dremel tool you can and sand down the nubs or cut them away slowly. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES! Little plastic pieces do not feel good in your tear ducts. I would suggest doing this outside in a place where you won't need to sweep or pick up all the little pieces that this messy process is going to make.
Trimming the ends of the connectors:
Shortening the connectors has the benefit of the connector taking up less space in the tubing so that the hoop remains rounder in the areas where the tubing has been inserted. I use the pvc cutters for this process. Cut very slowly at the first ridge from the end of the connector. Do this on both sides. (I will make a video of this process as soon as I can.)
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Now that you have trimmed connectors, measured tubing, you have your heat source and love is in your heart then let's get this thing put together!
Get your PVC Cutters and close them up. You can use them to push the connector into the end of the tubing. Make sure they are closed up with the metal locking thing on the end so that they have no way that they can open up and bite you. You can also use the floor to push it in but you can't see the connector moving into the tubing as well if you do it this way.
Take your heat source and heat the end of your tubing, you may want to practice this on a scrap piece to get it right, it does take awhile to get it down pat.
You want the connector to go in without crumpling the tubing, the tubing should be hot to the touch but not burning.
If your tubing crumples up or bubbles out you heated too long. Let it cool, cut off that end with your PVC cutters and start over. Remeasure your tubing if you do this.
The connector should be a little hard to push in and should only go half way into the tubing. If it hurts your soul when you start pushing it in then heat a little bit more and try again.
If it goes in too far and you can't get it back out you heated the tubing up too much. Wait for it to cool, cut that end off and start over. It's going to be OK. Be sure to remeasure your tubing if you do this.
When you get your connector in halfway let the tubing cool completely before heating the other side and connecting it together. This is a great time to go get some nachos.
Heat the other end of the tubing and insert the connector into the other side. If it slides too far you didn't let the other side cool down enough.
Cut it off, start again, remeasure if you have to do this.
If you choose a One connector hoop you are finished! If you choose a two connector hoop take your circumference and divide it by two. Measure, mark, cut and repeat the connector process for the second connector. If you picked a four connector hoop take your circumference and divide it by 4. Measure, mark and insert each connector one at a time until you've got it done.
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Clean up your hoop with Goo Gone or your cleaner of choice. Let it dry completely before you continue.
I you're making a Naked Hoop. You're done!
If you are taping your hoop I recommend vinyl tape. Peels off easy for easy replacement, sticks to you best if you've got exposed skin in key areas like the shoulders, thighs, abdomen etc and works best if you've got a bit of sweat built up. You can also clean it easily with some of that Goo Gone.
Don't tape over the connectors and make sure to place a wrap of tape over the tape job near each connector, this keeps your tape just in place because almost all tape shifts over time due to use and exposure to the elements.
If you're using glitter/sparkle/non-vinyl tape. It's going to crinkle a bit when the hoop folds up. Use a gaffer or vinyl on top of each side of the non-vinyl tape to help hold it down. It's just a fact of life. Also stay away from concrete and other rough surfaces. That non-vinyl stuff is prone to tears.
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Hoops make great gifts for everybody. Even those that think they can't do it. Make them a big enough hoop and if they stick to it they'll be asking you for a smaller one in about a month!
HAPPY HOOPING!
July 13, 2010
Fixing a kink - Hula Hoop surgery
I've had a few incidents where this has happened to one of my travel hoops. A mystery kink. Maybe the tubing was weak in one point due to flaws in manufactor. Maybe rouge children were playing with it and pulling on it when I wasn't looking. (Happens often!) Or maybe I was just a little to antsy to fold the thing up. Maybe I left it folded up in the car. (What happened to my led hoop.) But that leaves me with a kink in one of my favorite hoops. What do I do now?
I typically just leave my personal hoop(s) unfolded for a long duration of time. Maybe clamp down a little bit on it with some pliers. Leave it unfolded in the sun or in the car for an indefinite amount of time. Sometimes I can fold it up again, sometimes I can't. Sometimes I just make it worse. It's really just up to the tubing.
However, I did find that "hoop surgery" is entirely possible. It will never be exactly the same and still looks sort of funny when folded, but it works none the less.
Here's how to begin.
You will need:
A SHARP!, small, knife(I typically use a snap off box cutter.)
Something to cut your hoop patch with. (I recommend pvc cutters but a hacksaw works too.)
A marker that will show on the tubing.(I use a metallic, fast drying paint marker.)
A pair of large pliers with teeth on the inside for gripping.
Strong electrical tape for tight winding.
Epoxy for plastics, and clamps(optional)
A steady, patient hand.
About 20-60 minutes.
To start:
Cut a hoop patch approx. 4" in length. This tubing should be the same size and psi as the tubing your hoop is made out of.
Mark the middle of the inside of your hoop. Use a straight edge if you like.
Hold the hoop patch to this line and mark both ends so you know how long to make your cut.
Mark a section that is as long as your hoop patch and about 1/4" wide.
Carve away the section that you marked. Be carefule not to cut yourself or too far into the hoop. Cut slowy, and carefully making sure that you don't get any little pieces that fall into the hoop or you will have to remove these so your hoop doesn't rattle.
Take your hoop patch and note which way it curves. Mark a line on the outside curve of this piece and cut straight down the center of the outside curve. Afterwards carve away a little bit on one end and a little bit more out of the center so the hoop patch will slip inside the hoop nicely.
Now you're ready to insert your hoop patch. Insert the end that is carved away and side it up to one side. If you find your hoop patch is too big you can carve away a little off one of the ends.
Slide it in until it fits in the hoop nicely and clips onto the outside of the hoop.
Get your big pliers with teeth out. And place them around the hoop and hoop patch, catching the edge of the hoop patch with the teeth. Work slowly and carfully and turn the hoop patch so that it starts to slide into the hoop until it's all the way in. You may need to give the kink and little clamp down with the pliers first.
Once the hoop patch slides in you can push it in further so that the seam is completely inside the hoop and not showing through the hoop in the hoop.
From here you can use some glue and some clamps if you like. Place the glue between the inside of the hoop and the hoop patch and then clamp it down. This gets the hoop closer to it's original shape. Allow the glue to dry for an indefinite amount of time. Since the glue does not have a lot of access to air this time will vary and as I did not glue mine I am unsure exactly what time frame to give for this step.
Hold your hoop firmly and push it together where it has been patched. Tightly wrap this section well with electrical tape. Where the hoop has been cut will pucker out slightly when you fold up the hoop. This is to be expected. I am unsure if over time this will actually make another bend. If that ever occurs I will post an update.
Voila! You're hoop has now been patched. Carfully fold up the hoop. It will look a little strange and flat in that spot. But...it should actually be able to fold again. It will look best when unfolded, but now it still functions!
View the video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCDKL_mOu8Q
I typically just leave my personal hoop(s) unfolded for a long duration of time. Maybe clamp down a little bit on it with some pliers. Leave it unfolded in the sun or in the car for an indefinite amount of time. Sometimes I can fold it up again, sometimes I can't. Sometimes I just make it worse. It's really just up to the tubing.
However, I did find that "hoop surgery" is entirely possible. It will never be exactly the same and still looks sort of funny when folded, but it works none the less.
Here's how to begin.
You will need:
A SHARP!, small, knife(I typically use a snap off box cutter.)
Something to cut your hoop patch with. (I recommend pvc cutters but a hacksaw works too.)
A marker that will show on the tubing.(I use a metallic, fast drying paint marker.)
A pair of large pliers with teeth on the inside for gripping.
Strong electrical tape for tight winding.
Epoxy for plastics, and clamps(optional)
A steady, patient hand.
About 20-60 minutes.
To start:
Cut a hoop patch approx. 4" in length. This tubing should be the same size and psi as the tubing your hoop is made out of.
Mark the middle of the inside of your hoop. Use a straight edge if you like.
Hold the hoop patch to this line and mark both ends so you know how long to make your cut.
Mark a section that is as long as your hoop patch and about 1/4" wide.
Carve away the section that you marked. Be carefule not to cut yourself or too far into the hoop. Cut slowy, and carefully making sure that you don't get any little pieces that fall into the hoop or you will have to remove these so your hoop doesn't rattle.
Take your hoop patch and note which way it curves. Mark a line on the outside curve of this piece and cut straight down the center of the outside curve. Afterwards carve away a little bit on one end and a little bit more out of the center so the hoop patch will slip inside the hoop nicely.
Now you're ready to insert your hoop patch. Insert the end that is carved away and side it up to one side. If you find your hoop patch is too big you can carve away a little off one of the ends.
Slide it in until it fits in the hoop nicely and clips onto the outside of the hoop.
Get your big pliers with teeth out. And place them around the hoop and hoop patch, catching the edge of the hoop patch with the teeth. Work slowly and carfully and turn the hoop patch so that it starts to slide into the hoop until it's all the way in. You may need to give the kink and little clamp down with the pliers first.
Once the hoop patch slides in you can push it in further so that the seam is completely inside the hoop and not showing through the hoop in the hoop.
From here you can use some glue and some clamps if you like. Place the glue between the inside of the hoop and the hoop patch and then clamp it down. This gets the hoop closer to it's original shape. Allow the glue to dry for an indefinite amount of time. Since the glue does not have a lot of access to air this time will vary and as I did not glue mine I am unsure exactly what time frame to give for this step.
Hold your hoop firmly and push it together where it has been patched. Tightly wrap this section well with electrical tape. Where the hoop has been cut will pucker out slightly when you fold up the hoop. This is to be expected. I am unsure if over time this will actually make another bend. If that ever occurs I will post an update.
Voila! You're hoop has now been patched. Carfully fold up the hoop. It will look a little strange and flat in that spot. But...it should actually be able to fold again. It will look best when unfolded, but now it still functions!
View the video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCDKL_mOu8Q
May 31, 2010
New Hoop Style
Single Color Hoops are now available in my shop!
These hoops are 4 connector, collapsible travel hoops and are available in three different types of tubing and a variety of colors.
Follow the link to visit the shop!
May 22, 2010
Hooping FAQ
rainbowfrogs77 Hooping FAQ!
This blog post if MASSIVE! And I will be adding more too it.
Use CTRL+F to find something on the page faster.
Q: How do your hoops fold up? They look like two hoops in the picture.
A: All of my hoops fold infinity (figure 8) style. Twist, a little inspection, a push or pull if needed, then bring top to bottom to fold up. They have no bungees and are solid. They fold on the ridges of the connectors. I've seen too many hoops bust open in mid-air and I do not work with bungee hoops for this reason.
Here is my current youtube video for how to fold and unfold my hoops:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VubP9KmOoGU
Q: I will be folding and unfolding my hoop A LOT! What type should I get.
A: Four connector collapsible in either 1/2" 125psi, 3/4" 100psi or 3/4" 160psi tubing.
Q: My hoop won't flatten. What's up with that?
A: The properties of some of the tubing are a little stingy at times. There are a few things I do when my hoops are being stubborn.
1.) Beat it into submission. If you stand on the bottom of the hoop with one foot and firmly yet gently yank up and down on it. Continue this all around the circle.
2.) Eyeball it. Hold the hoop out in front of you and adjust at each connector. Continue around the circle as many times as needed. Mostly this method is for four connector hoops.
3.) Give it a bath. Place the hoops in the tub in hot water(not boiling hot). Rotate the hoop every 2 mintues or so. Afterwards the tubing will be pliable enough to shape the hoop easier. Be careful as this method may make the tubing pull off the connectors.
4.) Give it a little sun. Set your hoop out, as flat as it will go, in direct sunlight for 10-15-10 mintues. Keep an eye on it. It may flatten out by itself but will become more pliable just as the bathtub method.
5.) Put it in time out. If your car can accomidate your unfolded hoop then place it inside either somewhat upright or laying flat. The same rules apply for the sunshine and bathtub methods, but I have been able to fix kinks in this way by leaving the hoop in the car for an extended period of time on a 85 degree day and then letting it cool down afterwards before hooping. The kinks are not perfectly fixed but become harder to find/see.
Q: I'm using a hoop for a project and want it to warp and twist and mangle.
A: One connector hoop in either 1/2" 125psi or 3/4" 100psi tubing.
Q: I want to use my hoop as a loom....any ideas?
A: I've seen this done but not yet had the chance to do it. I would recommend a 3/4" 160psi tubing hoop. It's more durable and holds it shape well. One connector if you're not going to fold it up that often, four connectors if you're going to fold it and put it in storage for extended periods of time when not in use.
Q: I need about 10,000 hoops. How many do you have in stock?
A: I list approx. amounts in all the listings in my etsy store. I'm not sure I could make you that 10,000 (unless I had half of the payment up front for materials :D ) but I do have easy access to tubing, so I buy it as needed and usually have much more hanging about in the workshop. Custom orders/medium-large orders are better to send me a message anyways as I can calculate your shipping easier for you as well in this manner. Otherwise hoop shipping in my Etsy store is set for orders that are approx. 1-3 hoops in size.
Q: I'm using my hoop specifically for weight loss. Which one is best for me.
A: This question is touchy. Just as with any other type of exercise you can lose weight with a hoop. When I first started hooping I set out to learn it and lose weight and I did lose around 60 pounds doing it over the span of about 5 months. I was also on a low salt, low fat, restricted type of diet and I was a former track athlete in high school (I also was a cheerleader and did some gymnastics). Everyone's body and muscle memory is DIFFERENT! It's best to check with you doctor, physician, nutrionist, fitness coach before starting any daily workout plans. Once you have your goals, done a little homework, check out the online hooping communities, etc, send me a message and we can go over a few things to help get you fitted for a hoop and on your way to getting that "hoopers" body.
Q: How are single connector hoops different from four connector hoops?
A: Single connector hoops fold up simply for shipping convienence. Once they are unfolded it is best to keep them that way for the rest of their lifespans. Four connector hoops are made to be travel hoops. Folded, unfolded, taken on trips, as carry-on, stored in the closet, etc. Please note that 1" hoops are made into four connector hoops as well but should still be left UNFOLDED for the bulk of their lifespans. One inch hoops are workout hoops, very heavy and the nature of the tubing simply does not allow for much flexibility. They go through a heat treat process before they are shipped out and while they are very durable they can still buckle if left folded for too long, or in heat, or direct sunlight. They are also a bit of a pain in the butt to fold up, even for me, and I've done it a lot.
TUBING FAQ!!!!:
Almost everything you ever wanted to know about tubing (I'll have more information on tubing and diameters in my hoop generator which is currently in development. It's fun, it's funky, it's flash! Point and click. 123. But for now, here is what I have.)
1/2" 125psi tubing - Light weight. Folds and unfolds easily. Great for kids hoops, isolation work, sustained spinning, advanced hooping.
3/4" 100psi tubing - The typical choice for most hoopers. This is your typical dance hoop. If your aim in hooping is hoop dance, tricks, walking around the yard with it, jammin to music, spinning like crazy man...craaaazyyy, running with the hoops, skipping/jumping/sumersaults... then this is usually your hoop. It's still pretty light, folds and unfolds easily and gets you closer to that 1/2" 125psi dream hoop.
3/4" 160psi tubing - A little heavy. This is your typical, stationary hooping...hoop. In-home workouts, limited and/or basic tricks. Folds and unfolds with a little bit of pressure. Targeted core workouts are usually best with this hoop and this is a great hoop if you consider yourself not very "hoop savvy". I also find that most guys prefer this hoop. It goes around a little slower but is somewhat easier to keep up and spinning around yourself.
1" 100psi tubing - Heavy, thick. Larger body frames tend to prefer the 1" tubing if they don't want to go with a 3/4" 160psi. Becuase of the weight and thickness I recommend this hoop if you're not going to do anything that involves the hoop going near your face. No throwing, overhead lifting, etc. I recommend this hoop for standing workouts only. Working up a sweat with the hoop around your waist. I use one of these when I'm standing in my tiny living room just watching television in the winter time.
1" 160psi tubing - Holey Moley! This stuff is the heaviest tubing I carry. It's an ultra, mega workout hoop. The same rules apply for this tubing as the 1" 100psi I have listed above. I only carry this in the naked hoops and I recommend covering it with something spongey, squishy, padded. Around the waist, around the waist, around the waist. It will get your heart pumping, just watch out for bruises. I was using one of these once and forgot how heavy it was until I let it work it's way up to around my chest....ouchies.
Hoop diameter!!!- (I will have more in-depth information in the hoop generator. Soon to come...)
Basic sizing information - Most hoopers prefer a hoop that is the diameter of the measurement from their solar plexus to the ground. If that seems too large you can always go with a measurement from your belly button to the ground too, as that seems to also work good as well. It's entirely up to you. If you feel it's too big, maybe it is, maybe it isn't, maybe it needs to be even bigger. The biggest factor in hooping diameter is time. Until you find youre comfort zone, hooping style, flow, etc then there is a good chance your hoop needs will grow. Sometimes this means that your hoop will grow too and sometimes it means it will shrink. When I first began hooping I used a 42"-44" in 3/4" 100psi. I now do most of my hooping with a 32" 3/4" 100psi hoop for faster exercise, 38" 1/2" 125psi hoop for most casual hooping/experimenting/practicing and a 40"-42" 3/4" 100psi hoop for gatherings/traveling/etc.
There are some other aspects to consider as well. If you are advancing, replacing your current hoop becuase you are having hoopy issues with it, looking to divide and conquer particular types of hoop dance, are very slender/tall/chunky/big boned(my personal problem)/short/vision-balance-etc impaired/pregnant(yes indeedy I've seen pregnant hoopers:) ) or any other little something you think may impact picking out a hoop size please send me a message as there are so many things I could write here in different bullets and catagories that my fingers just may fall off a bit.
Other Hooping Questions? - I could fill a book with the hooping information I've acquired since I started making hoops. I've tried writing it all down several times but there's just so much ever growing information it's hard to get it all in here at the moment. I will update this as often as possible. I may move it, but I'm sticking to my guns this time and compiling information at a steady pace. As steady as she goes.
All of my information here is from my own experience, blisters, calluses, trial and error, what my friends have told me about their hoop experience, my wonderful customers, my awesome hooping buddies, various instructionals/videos, and too many beautful hoopers to even begin to mention.
For even more hooping information visit the internet super-hooper-community at:
Hooping.org has countless articles, information, forums, hoopers, weblinks, pictures, and everything you ever wanted to know but where afraid to ask about hooping. You'll find all the big wigs and little wigs of the hoop community there.
Also try Sandra SaFire's hoop community:
It's a space and place for hoopers. Sandra has video instructionals/classes/etc etc. Her internet hooping video is the reason I got started hooping. I'm not sure how she does all that she does...but she does!! Thank goodness she does!
This blog post if MASSIVE! And I will be adding more too it.
Use CTRL+F to find something on the page faster.
Q: How do your hoops fold up? They look like two hoops in the picture.
A: All of my hoops fold infinity (figure 8) style. Twist, a little inspection, a push or pull if needed, then bring top to bottom to fold up. They have no bungees and are solid. They fold on the ridges of the connectors. I've seen too many hoops bust open in mid-air and I do not work with bungee hoops for this reason.
Here is my current youtube video for how to fold and unfold my hoops:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VubP9KmOoGU
Q: I will be folding and unfolding my hoop A LOT! What type should I get.
A: Four connector collapsible in either 1/2" 125psi, 3/4" 100psi or 3/4" 160psi tubing.
Q: My hoop won't flatten. What's up with that?
A: The properties of some of the tubing are a little stingy at times. There are a few things I do when my hoops are being stubborn.
1.) Beat it into submission. If you stand on the bottom of the hoop with one foot and firmly yet gently yank up and down on it. Continue this all around the circle.
2.) Eyeball it. Hold the hoop out in front of you and adjust at each connector. Continue around the circle as many times as needed. Mostly this method is for four connector hoops.
3.) Give it a bath. Place the hoops in the tub in hot water(not boiling hot). Rotate the hoop every 2 mintues or so. Afterwards the tubing will be pliable enough to shape the hoop easier. Be careful as this method may make the tubing pull off the connectors.
4.) Give it a little sun. Set your hoop out, as flat as it will go, in direct sunlight for 10-15-10 mintues. Keep an eye on it. It may flatten out by itself but will become more pliable just as the bathtub method.
5.) Put it in time out. If your car can accomidate your unfolded hoop then place it inside either somewhat upright or laying flat. The same rules apply for the sunshine and bathtub methods, but I have been able to fix kinks in this way by leaving the hoop in the car for an extended period of time on a 85 degree day and then letting it cool down afterwards before hooping. The kinks are not perfectly fixed but become harder to find/see.
Q: I'm using a hoop for a project and want it to warp and twist and mangle.
A: One connector hoop in either 1/2" 125psi or 3/4" 100psi tubing.
Q: I want to use my hoop as a loom....any ideas?
A: I've seen this done but not yet had the chance to do it. I would recommend a 3/4" 160psi tubing hoop. It's more durable and holds it shape well. One connector if you're not going to fold it up that often, four connectors if you're going to fold it and put it in storage for extended periods of time when not in use.
Q: I need about 10,000 hoops. How many do you have in stock?
A: I list approx. amounts in all the listings in my etsy store. I'm not sure I could make you that 10,000 (unless I had half of the payment up front for materials :D ) but I do have easy access to tubing, so I buy it as needed and usually have much more hanging about in the workshop. Custom orders/medium-large orders are better to send me a message anyways as I can calculate your shipping easier for you as well in this manner. Otherwise hoop shipping in my Etsy store is set for orders that are approx. 1-3 hoops in size.
Q: I'm using my hoop specifically for weight loss. Which one is best for me.
A: This question is touchy. Just as with any other type of exercise you can lose weight with a hoop. When I first started hooping I set out to learn it and lose weight and I did lose around 60 pounds doing it over the span of about 5 months. I was also on a low salt, low fat, restricted type of diet and I was a former track athlete in high school (I also was a cheerleader and did some gymnastics). Everyone's body and muscle memory is DIFFERENT! It's best to check with you doctor, physician, nutrionist, fitness coach before starting any daily workout plans. Once you have your goals, done a little homework, check out the online hooping communities, etc, send me a message and we can go over a few things to help get you fitted for a hoop and on your way to getting that "hoopers" body.
Q: How are single connector hoops different from four connector hoops?
A: Single connector hoops fold up simply for shipping convienence. Once they are unfolded it is best to keep them that way for the rest of their lifespans. Four connector hoops are made to be travel hoops. Folded, unfolded, taken on trips, as carry-on, stored in the closet, etc. Please note that 1" hoops are made into four connector hoops as well but should still be left UNFOLDED for the bulk of their lifespans. One inch hoops are workout hoops, very heavy and the nature of the tubing simply does not allow for much flexibility. They go through a heat treat process before they are shipped out and while they are very durable they can still buckle if left folded for too long, or in heat, or direct sunlight. They are also a bit of a pain in the butt to fold up, even for me, and I've done it a lot.
TUBING FAQ!!!!:
Almost everything you ever wanted to know about tubing (I'll have more information on tubing and diameters in my hoop generator which is currently in development. It's fun, it's funky, it's flash! Point and click. 123. But for now, here is what I have.)
1/2" 125psi tubing - Light weight. Folds and unfolds easily. Great for kids hoops, isolation work, sustained spinning, advanced hooping.
3/4" 100psi tubing - The typical choice for most hoopers. This is your typical dance hoop. If your aim in hooping is hoop dance, tricks, walking around the yard with it, jammin to music, spinning like crazy man...craaaazyyy, running with the hoops, skipping/jumping/sumersaults... then this is usually your hoop. It's still pretty light, folds and unfolds easily and gets you closer to that 1/2" 125psi dream hoop.
3/4" 160psi tubing - A little heavy. This is your typical, stationary hooping...hoop. In-home workouts, limited and/or basic tricks. Folds and unfolds with a little bit of pressure. Targeted core workouts are usually best with this hoop and this is a great hoop if you consider yourself not very "hoop savvy". I also find that most guys prefer this hoop. It goes around a little slower but is somewhat easier to keep up and spinning around yourself.
1" 100psi tubing - Heavy, thick. Larger body frames tend to prefer the 1" tubing if they don't want to go with a 3/4" 160psi. Becuase of the weight and thickness I recommend this hoop if you're not going to do anything that involves the hoop going near your face. No throwing, overhead lifting, etc. I recommend this hoop for standing workouts only. Working up a sweat with the hoop around your waist. I use one of these when I'm standing in my tiny living room just watching television in the winter time.
1" 160psi tubing - Holey Moley! This stuff is the heaviest tubing I carry. It's an ultra, mega workout hoop. The same rules apply for this tubing as the 1" 100psi I have listed above. I only carry this in the naked hoops and I recommend covering it with something spongey, squishy, padded. Around the waist, around the waist, around the waist. It will get your heart pumping, just watch out for bruises. I was using one of these once and forgot how heavy it was until I let it work it's way up to around my chest....ouchies.
Hoop diameter!!!- (I will have more in-depth information in the hoop generator. Soon to come...)
Basic sizing information - Most hoopers prefer a hoop that is the diameter of the measurement from their solar plexus to the ground. If that seems too large you can always go with a measurement from your belly button to the ground too, as that seems to also work good as well. It's entirely up to you. If you feel it's too big, maybe it is, maybe it isn't, maybe it needs to be even bigger. The biggest factor in hooping diameter is time. Until you find youre comfort zone, hooping style, flow, etc then there is a good chance your hoop needs will grow. Sometimes this means that your hoop will grow too and sometimes it means it will shrink. When I first began hooping I used a 42"-44" in 3/4" 100psi. I now do most of my hooping with a 32" 3/4" 100psi hoop for faster exercise, 38" 1/2" 125psi hoop for most casual hooping/experimenting/practicing and a 40"-42" 3/4" 100psi hoop for gatherings/traveling/etc.
There are some other aspects to consider as well. If you are advancing, replacing your current hoop becuase you are having hoopy issues with it, looking to divide and conquer particular types of hoop dance, are very slender/tall/chunky/big boned(my personal problem)/short/vision-balance-etc impaired/pregnant(yes indeedy I've seen pregnant hoopers:) ) or any other little something you think may impact picking out a hoop size please send me a message as there are so many things I could write here in different bullets and catagories that my fingers just may fall off a bit.
Other Hooping Questions? - I could fill a book with the hooping information I've acquired since I started making hoops. I've tried writing it all down several times but there's just so much ever growing information it's hard to get it all in here at the moment. I will update this as often as possible. I may move it, but I'm sticking to my guns this time and compiling information at a steady pace. As steady as she goes.
All of my information here is from my own experience, blisters, calluses, trial and error, what my friends have told me about their hoop experience, my wonderful customers, my awesome hooping buddies, various instructionals/videos, and too many beautful hoopers to even begin to mention.
For even more hooping information visit the internet super-hooper-community at:
Hooping.org has countless articles, information, forums, hoopers, weblinks, pictures, and everything you ever wanted to know but where afraid to ask about hooping. You'll find all the big wigs and little wigs of the hoop community there.
Also try Sandra SaFire's hoop community:
It's a space and place for hoopers. Sandra has video instructionals/classes/etc etc. Her internet hooping video is the reason I got started hooping. I'm not sure how she does all that she does...but she does!! Thank goodness she does!
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